Niue: The Rock of Polynesia
I began my New Year in Niue, one of the least visited countries in the world and a tiny, hidden paradise. An atoll spanning only 261 square kilometres, Niue is a vibrant, green haven floating amid the Pacific Ocean. Most people have never heard of it, let alone visited the small nation. Yet this is the place my ancestors called home.
Growing up in England, I was both physically and in some aspects emotionally distant from my heritage. I never felt fully British, yet I haven’t vividly experienced my Polynesian culture. The knowledge I did have, came from what my mother shared or from our trips to New Zealand where most of my family had migrated. I often returned to England wondering what life would have been like surrounded by an abundance of relatives, culture and vibrancy. Then, at the end of 2023, I had my first visit to Niue.
What does Niue look like?
Niue is one of the most remote places I have ever been. Its simplicity is clear as soon as you land, and the airport is a large wooden building, the only one in sight surrounded by vibrant tropical greenery. There is a sign with ‘Fukalofalahi atu’ (greetings) standing proudly by its double door where we queued for probably the world’s most relaxed airport security. You collect your luggage from outside and walk out to see a couple hundred people chattering with leis to welcome loved ones. There is one flight a week, and two during the Christmas period, so the flight is always busy.
Niue has one main road that circulates the island and is covered in palm trees and thick, wild plants spilling out onto the road. The road on the west side of the island where the larger villages and the capital, Alofi are situated is much better maintained. The east side is almost undrivable. On the west side of the island from Matula in the north to Avatele in the south, there are houses alongside the road. But even then the houses are not lined up neatly with clear areas of land. Instead, homes have been built in a ‘hotch-potch’ fashion, some closer together and some further apart, behind other homes or further back from the road. Lots of houses have sadly been abandoned. Most homes are built from wood and stones, and in many areas, a home might be completely isolated from any neighbours in view.
The plantation there has an abundance of greenery, palm trees, large bushes and huge plants. Lots of areas of the island are completely overgrown, and there are several small forests leading down to sea tracks. I was told by family members that there were so many flowers on the island you could smell them as you drove down the road, but Cyclone Heta in 2004 destroyed most of them and the land still hasn’t recovered. There are some patches of hibiscuses and frangipanis that grow across the island and still plenty of palm trees.
The ocean and rocky beaches are the most stunning part of the island. The water is so clear you can see all the fish, coral and the sea bed underwater. From every side of the island, the water is a deep blue, and you can see packs of dolphins swimming past the coast most mornings. Swimming in Niue will always be one of my favourite memories. The water is so fresh, and you are often on your own. Limu Pools was a personal favourite spot.
What is the culture like?
We were very blessed to have family members living on the island, so we learnt a great deal about our heritage and culture. Niue has always had a smaller population than other Polynesian islands and as a result of most people migrating to New Zealand, the language and lots of traditions are dying or have been merged with other island nations. In the mid-20th century, the top students would get scholarships to study in New Zealand, and many people went to other islands for work. To encourage New Zealand to hand out scholarships and opportunities to Niuean people, schools in Niue at one point even banned children from speaking Niuean in the classrooms to develop English skills. Now schools are trying to teach Niuean since many young Niueans speak very little of it.
Niueans, like many other Polynesian nations are spiritual and superstitious. Land is a great part of the culture, and families are protective over land that is linked to their ancestors. Loved ones are not typically buried in cemeteries unless they are religious figures. Most people are buried on their family’s land. We went to the burial of my aunt and name-sake cousin, and they were buried in their front garden. The holes for the graves aren’t dug until the morning of the burial. It is believed that if a hole is dug before the day the ashes go into the ground, someone else will die and their spirit will fill the hole. Polynesian funerals are also supposed to be celebrations of life, with ‘sunrise and sunset’ instead of ‘born and died’ often written on headstones. People wear lots of colour and traditional prints and throw flowers and colourful clothes into the grave. Hair is another very important symbol in many Polynesian cultures, with a child’s first haircut being a large ceremony. One of my aunt’s grandchildren cut her hair and threw it into the grave, a high honour in our culture.
Despite originally having its gods which were often linked to nature and the sea, Niue is a very Christian island. The main religion is Presbyterianism, but there are some Mormon churches on the island. Women wear handmade hats weaved from dried leaves to church and services are in Niuean. Families pray before and after meal times and before leaving family gatherings. The culture is strict with religious customs but some social norms are surprising in comparison. Niue has a fairly relaxed culture when it comes to multiple husbands or wives. For example, some men expected to return from war and find their wives had slept with other men which would show she was desirable. Divorce was not taboo and people were not ostracised for re-marrying. Families were expected to share children, for example, if one sister had multiple children and another could not have any children, she was expected to give one of her children. Grandparents or aunts and uncles could adopt children from other parts of the family, and children sometimes grew up with ‘siblings’ that were second cousins or technically from the generation before them. This often makes family trees very confusing and difficult to trace.
However, my favourite part of the culture is how openly people talk about life and death. Since funerals are seen as a celebration of life, death is often spoken about amongst families and is an important conversation to have, especially with one’s children. Niueans are also very welcoming to those who are family, even distant relatives, and will embrace anyone part of their family or village.
What is the food like?
Unsurprisingly for an island nation, Niue’s food consists predominately of fruit, seafood, and root vegetables. Some canned food like corn beef is popular because it was easily transported from boats that brought supplies to the island. Coconut crab called uga (pronounced unga) is a popular delicacy. Taro (pronounced talaw) is a type of root vegetable most comparable to a potato that grows on the island and is very common in most meals. Most Polynesian islands have their version, but Niue’s is soft and slightly sweet, with a similar consistency to a firm-boiled potato. Takihi is one of my favourites: made from pawpaw (a sweet fruit) and taro layered in coconut cream. Faika is another traditional dish, made from banana leaves cooked with tuna wrapped inside.
Final thoughts
My favourite part of the trip was learning about my family’s life and heritage. There are so many people I met who were such an important part of my experience and gave me unforgettable memories. I’d encourage anyone to explore their culture and family history, especially if people are still alive to give you a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
